η διαδικασια για να τριγκαρεις τα ψαρια σε αναπαραγωγη απτον διαχειριστη του finarama(the angelfish project),σε απαντηση αλλου χρηστη.
μπελαλιδικη... 
το βαζω στα αγγλικα,και αν δεν εχω πoλυ κουραση οταν γυρισω απτη δουλεια το βραδι θα το μεταφρασω και στα ελληνικα.(αλλιως αυριο).
http://www.finarama.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2641
"How old are your altum? What body size? When did you buy them and what body size were they when you received them?
It is important to know that they are mature adults and an actual pair.
The procedure I recommend is basically a biosimulation of the annual tropical wet and dry season cycle.
The dry season in the Orinoco (heavily influences the Uppermost Rio Negro also, though the latter is different) starts around November (you need to half your water changes) and then as of February, when it begins to peak, you minimize water changes, minimize food and elevate T the high 80's into 90-92F. Come April, start providing a conditioning diet high in protein, live and fresh food will help very much. Come May, start heavy water changes, a long and slow full water change with preconditioned, acid, cool water should bring you a surprise. This is more or less what Mike did and it worked for him.
At this point, I would start preparing for next year... but if all is in order, you could get lucky."
-
και εδω
"OK friend (Hmyxis), I really prefer calling people by their names (or nickname if you'd prefer). Being that 65 microsiemens/cm is around 40ppm, your water is very soft, not at all hard (unless I am interpreting what you wrote wrong!).
I see three, apparently large adult altum probably behaving in the way three non (breeding) interested altum would. I assume you are having no behavior that would indicate you have an actual pair (or is there any interesting behavior?)
My opinion is that at this point, you have two options (and I would do the second):
A. Perform a condensed dry seasonal cycle.
1.A. Stop water changes, minimize feeding, for next two weeks. Increase T to 88-90F. Ph around 6.5. You can even add 10% tap to increase hardness.
1.B. Prepare a full tank worth of water of very soft and acid (pH around 4.5 to 5.0), T about 75F. Using RO/DI as base water and adding (as per Chris' suggestion) catappa, peat, rooibos, etc. and trace minerals, such as Seachem Discus Trace or similar (half dose),
1.C. After the two or three weeks of very warm, relatively hard and less acid water, with minimal feed... increase feed for a week using, as I said earlier, live and fresh foods, ideally live mosquito larvae, bloodworms, brine shrimp, etc. If you can get a clean culture of molly or guppy fry and feed them with spirulina flake, that'd be great.
1.D. Finally, bring down the water level to half tank and in the evening hours, start pumping the cool (75F) preconditioned water in the tank. We will want the T to drop from 90F to around 82-84F along a few hours. If you have a pair, you should see at least, some interesting behavior.
OR
B. Continue your husbandry as it is for now until November. Then begin the dry season cycle slowly, monthly performing less water changes and in February of next year, peak into the end of the dry season until late April when you can start conditioning and increasing water changes with prepared blackwater.
The contrast of relatively extreme parameters will be your trigger... the sudden (night to day) changes from less acid, harder, warmer water to more acid, much softer and cooler water, along with variable feeding patterns, oxygen availability, are among the more important variables that will trigger your fish into action.
Regards
Ed"
|