Το σημειο του υπομνηματος το παρεθεσα για να δειξω το θεμα με τισ παρενθεσεισ κ τιποτα αλλο.......δια βαστε ενα απο τα δεκαδες αρθα που κυκλωφορουν:
http://www.aquariumslife.com/algae-c...e-green-algae/
Description
Blue Green Algae (BGA) has nothing to do with other types of algae usually found in aquarium. This unsightly and potentially hazardous primitive life-form is notoriously hard to get rid of and is the bane of many an aquarist.
Blue Green Algae is actually not an algae but rather Cyanobacteria, a group of bacteria capable of photosynthesis. It appears as thick sheets of blue-green, purple, black or brown slime coating the tank substrate rocks and plants. The slime is actually the protective membrane the bacteria forms around the colony. If left to over-run the tank, it will kill your plants and may also kill your fish (some species of cyanobacteria produce toxins). Once it is well established, the water sometimes smells foul.
Blue Green Algae in one of our oldest ancestor. Unfortunately, the more primitive a life-form is, the less it needs to grow and adapt. Blue Green Algae is usually more tolerant to extreme environments than algae and can be found in locations where algae don’t grow. It can fix nitrogen and may therefore occur in tanks with zero or very low nitrates (but possibly high levels of other nutrients).
In its most common form, the Blue Green Algae is microscopic and harmless. We can’t see it but it’s there, floating around, waiting for the ideal location/condition to grow onto its next life-stage and begin a colony (the slimy stage). In most case, the ideal location is a dead spot with low oxygen, low water movement and lots of organic waste.
Prevention
Dose nitrates (NO3), add powerheads to aid circulation, frequent partial water changes, do not over-feed and make sure your substrate (if any) is well oxygenated.
Treatment
Oxygen: As a result of the complex chemical process that allows it to fix its own nitrogen, oxygen is toxic to the Blue Green Algae (this is actually why it likes death spot and low oxygen). Increasing oxygen level in the tank will help a lot.
You can also use a syringe to spot treat problem areas with H2O2 (Peroxide). In contact with light, Peroxide goes from 2H2O2 to 2H2O + O2 (water and oxygen) which drastically kill Blue Green Algae within minutes. It’s actually pretty enjoyable to watch! I recommend no more than 1ml of Peroxide per 5 gallons of water once every 30-60 min. Because it only treats a small area at the time, Peroxide is usually not the best way to fix a Blue Green Algae problem.
If you are lucky enough to own a dosing pump, adding automatically the equivalent of 1 ml of peroxide per 5 gallons of water every 30 min is a great and easy way to raise oxygen level. This will help a lot but won’t kill it like it does when using a syringe to spot treat.
Manual removal: Removing it manually will only temporarily help but it tends to make it grow back faster. Since it is bacteria, there is no way to get all of it out of your tank. However, it is recommended to remove it from your plants leaves. If you don’t your plants will suffocate to death and suffer from the lack of light.
Water movement: A good circulation would reduce stratification in the aquarium and thus reduce the number of death spot available for the Blue Green Algae to establish.
Well oxygenated substrate: Sometimes Blue Green Algae is seen in small quantities between the substrate and aquarium sides. This usually happen when the substrate compact and does not get oxygenated very well. For more information about substrate, please read Substrate Material For The Planted Aquarium
Cleaning crew: I must admit that I am a little confused about this. I always thought nothing eats the Blue Green Algae but, I have found some articles saying that a few species will actually eat it. Here are some of the species that could possibly eat it:
-Some of the Nerite snails
-American flag fish – Jordanella floridae
-butterfly goddeid – Ameca splendens
-Bluegreen lampeye – Procatopus aberrans
-Red Ramshorn Snails – Planorbis corneus/rubrum
Maracyn: Maracyn (rythromycin) is an effective antibiotic against gram-negative bacteria (Blue Green Algae is a gram-negative bacteria). Some people are worried about damaging the biological filter of beneficial bacteria at the point to nitrite spikes but this is very unlikely to happen. Those spikes are actually the result of dead cyanobacteria, not beneficial bacteria.
3-5 day blackout: According to many, a 3-5 day blackout can be a good way to get rid of the Blue Green Algae (didn’t worked for me). You will have to cover the tank with cardboards to block out any ambient light for 3-5 days. Leave the lights off and don’t feed the fish for that period. Aquarium plants are strong enough to survive without lights for a good week so don’t worry. After a week, remove all death leaves from the tank (if any) and do a 25% water change.
Copper treatment: Personally I don’t like copper. It’s poisonous to everything so I don’t want that in my tank. Most “miracle” treatments you buy contains copper. That should work but there can be consequences.
Reverse Osmosis water:
Excess Dissolved Organic Carbons (DOC) in the water can also be a cause of Blue Green Algae. Some of the reasons for having too many DOC’s include overfeeding, lack of filtration and the use of tap water for water changes.
Typical tap water has a Total Dissolved Solids (TDS), of 250 to 500ppm while Reverse Osmosis water shouldn’t have more than 0-5ppm.
Using Reverse Osmosis water for the next few water changes can reduce what’s in your water drastically and help fighting the algae.
Καλο θα ηταν απευθύνομε κ στουσ διαχειριστές να ενημερώσουν τα θεματα τους αλλα κ να τα συμπληροσουν κ να μην ειναι τοσο γενικα,για παραδειγμα δεν λενε αν εχουν χρησιμοποιησει ενεργω ανθρακα η ζεολιθο στα φιλτρα κατα την διαρκεια τησ εκαστοτε θεραπειασ, δεν λενε αν εχει γινει αλλαγη νερου πριν η αν εχουν ρηξει λιπασμα πριν η οχι ειναι λεπτωμεριες που κανουν την διαφορα αναμεσα στην επιτυχεια αντιμετωπισεισ του εκαστοτε προβληματος κ την πληρη αποτυχεια...εχω δοκιμάσει 2 απο τισ μεθοδους για τισ αλγεσ κ ηταν παταγώδης αποτυχεια λογο φυσικά τησ ελλείψεις περισοτερων πληροφοριων αλλα κ του οτι δεν ειναι αποσταγμτα εμπειριας αλλα αντιγραφες απο αλλα σαιτ κ καλο θα ηταν ο διαχειρηστεις περα απο τα νευρα τους κ τις επιπληξεις του σε βαρος μου να τα δει αυτα τα θεματα γιατι ειναι για το καλο ολων μας αλλα και κυριοσ για αυτο που αγαπαμε τοσο πολυ τα φυτεμενα ενυδρεια..δειτε λοιπον μια μεθοδο δικια μου για την αντιμετώπισε του πρασηνου νερου:
http://www.aquatek.gr/vb/showthread.php?t=62220
και οσον αφορα την θεραπεία θελω να πω οτι 6 μερα σημερα κ το ενυδρειο ειναι πεντακαθαρο.....που υπο αλλεσ συνθηκες μεσα σε 12 ωρεσ απο το καθαρισμο του ενυδρειου απο το κυανοβακτηριο ηταν παλι γεματο.......εχουμε βρει μια καραμελα "συσκοτισμός" κ την πεταμε οπου βρουμε χανοντασ χρονο αλλα και διαλύοντας μερικοσ το στήσιμο του ενυδρειου